Stealth Camping through the White Mountains

Hi friends and family! Sorry for the long time between posts. I’ve been enjoying myself since finishing the hike and haven’t made the time to continue sharing my story until now. I’m going to pick up where I left off after taking four days off to help my brother move into our new apartment in DC (which is actually where I’m writing this post from).

Just after noon on July 2, I said goodbye to my parents as they dropped me off at the trailhead at Franconia Notch. After a steep climb up from the notch, I was rewarded with incredible views from Franconia Ridge.

On my way down from Mt. Lafayette I spoke with a southbound thru-hiker (SOBO) who told me that she’d just passed Smiley, a northbound thru-hiker (NOBO) that I last saw before he took a week off at home in New York. The SOBO informed me that Smiley was planning to stay at the Galehead Hut, so I made that my new goal for the night. Smiley was pretty surprised to see me when I arrived at the Galehead Hut, but our reunion was short-lived because I had to hike on since there were already too many thru-hikers doing work-for-stays at the hut.

I moved up the trail a quarter of a mile and pitched my tent a bit off the trail in a nice soft spot. (Stealth camp #1.) As soon as my tent was set up with me inside it, the rain started coming down hard! I slept well and was happy to wake up to sun. Apparently I had a visitor that night, because on my way back to the trail, I encountered a fresh set of moose tracks no more than 15 yards from my tentsite.

As I hiked along Zeacliff Ridge, I was constantly accompanied by some Gray (or Canada) Jays. They were not afraid to sneak up on me, even as I tried to sneak up on them with my camera on.

The views continued to impress from the Whites.

I hiked on to Crawford Notch and was shocked to find Hawk, Bobber, and Les waiting there for Les’s sister to show up with some trail magic. I’d assumed they’d still be days ahead of me, but I was happy to camp with them that night just north of the Saco River. (Stealth camp #2.) In the middle of the night, I heard a yell from Bobber’s tent, followed by a large crash. Apparently, some creature (possibly a moose) snuck up on Bobber, who awoke to heavy breathing a little closer than he liked. He scared it off, but never confirmed what type of animal it was.

By the way, stealth camping is when you pitch a tent somewhere other than a designated campsite. This is strongly discouraged in the White Mountains by the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC), which charges for stays at their huts and campsites. My goal was to never pay for a night in the Whites. So far so good.

I’m Done!

I am alive, and as of yesterday, July 24, I am also done my thru-hike! It took me nearly five months, but I finished with much of the same group I hiked with at the beginning. Gold Bond, Drop, Cliffhanger, Antsy, and I summited Mount Katahdin on Tuesday around noon.

I have many blog posts to write with photos and videos from the end of New Hampshire and all of Maine. I also have some thank-you’s to express for trail magic from friends and family. I will continue updating my blog and let you know how my trip ended over the next week or so.

Thanks for everyone who followed my adventure and supported me!

Rocksylvania?

Pennsylvania is reputably the rockiest, toughest-on-your-feet state on the trail. I’m now 150 miles through PA with about half that distance left to go before I reach the New Jersey border, but the Rocksylvania reputation needs some clarification. The first 100 or so miles are really no worse than any other somewhat rocky sections in other states. The last day or two, however, was pretty rocky – the sharp little rocks that you can’t avoid stepping on. The biggest problem is that sometimes your feet get turned and a rock pokes through the side of your shoes where there’s little protection. Anyway, northern PA is pretty rocky, but the whole state is more notable for how flat it is.

I had to laugh when I first saw this shelter. It has hanging flower plants, a picket fence, little duck signs, and a chess board. Jim “The Innkeeper” takes good care of this one.

At the next shelter, I met Birchy, who maintains the section of the trail around Birch Run Shelter. He was there cleaning up and offering trail magic, so I gladly accepted a soda and some cheese and sausage. He was so convincing that rather than hiking on to the next shelter for the night, I took up his offer to stay at his hostel a mile up the trail. Another hiker named Milkshake and I were treated to Mountain Rose’s famous steak and cheese subs, and we enjoyed all we could drink beverages all night. Breakfast the next morning was early and delicious: omelet, hash browns, and maple sausage.

The next day I hit a huge landmark: the halfway point of the AT!

As I thought, the Pine Grove General Store (traditional home of the half gallon challenge) was closed, but I did check out the AT museum next door, where they had a model of what the first shelters looked like.

For a few days, I’d been working on a song about my fellow thru-hikers that I finally convinced them to sing with me at Cove Mountain Shelter, just outside of Duncannon.

That night I was the only one that stayed in the shelter rather than in my tent and it was a mostly sleepless night. I was constantly waking up to scare off a very persistent flying squirrel and a slightly less persistent, but much bigger porcupine, both of which kept heading for my pack.

In Duncannon the next morning, I met Vicky and Pat, owners of the popular hotel/pub The Doyle. I cashed in on the free beer token that Birchy had given me a couple nights before and also enjoyed a couple burgers and some fries. On the way out of town I enjoyed a milkshake. (I’m beginning to realize that a lot of my blog posts are filled with food stories as some of you have commented.)

After leaving Duncannon, I learned that there are in fact some rocky sections of PA.

I found another shelter that pizza companies deliver to (the 501 Shelter) and took full advantage of the chance to eat a meal I didn’t have to carry, easily polishing off a large pepperoni, pineapple, and broccoli pizza.

Finally, yesterday I hiked into Port Clinton, PA. (What a steep descent into town!) Before setting up our tents and eating dinner at the pavilion outside of town, a group of us decided to stop for a beer at the firehouse (which is a bar in disguise). Well, one beer turned into a few beers and then a few shots. I had a great night as you can tell from this picture with the bartender (in purple) and a local hiker-loving patron who contributed to my over-consumption.

At the end of the night, we somehow managed to walk to the pavilion, but this morning I was in no shape to hike, so I paid for a room at the local hotel so I could wash up and do a much-needed load of laundry. Tomorrow I will resupply and try to catch up to those that went ahead today. Still having fun out here (perhaps a little too much)!

If Smelling Like a Thru-hiker Makes You One, I’m Legit

Just made it to Mountain Crossings at Neels Gap this afternoon so I can upload some photos and a video from yesterday. Thanks everyone for all the positive feedback!

Didn’t know you could get pizza on the AT did you?

Stumpy, this one’s for you. With love from the AT.